I remember being in my second year of University, having to move home due to the Pandemic, and not having any idea of how long we would be in lockdown for. The silver lining? It was an insane Summer - I got into great shape, had an extended uni break with no exams, all while getting, what felt like, free money (from being on the furlough scheme). That feeling of freedom was addictive, and something I couldn't shake throughout my final two years of University. I couldn't pinpoint exactly when I decided I wanted to head off to Australia but it was around the first lockdown in Scotland. I remember hearing of the backpackers that were travelling Australia, and how they all had to end their travels and come home early. That must've been brutal - saving up, hyping yourself up to move to the other side of the world, and for it to be over before it even really started. But weirdly, this really made me aware of how many people actually did it. It secured a space in the back of my mind as something I had to do for myself. So, for my final two years of University, I had it in ingrained in me -I'd finish my degree, graduate, and fly to the furthest place from home to work and travel. Now, I feel like my reasoning for pushing the 9-5 office job to one side back in 2022 is much different to now. Back then, it was mostly about the nerves - being scared of the unknown, not knowing if I'd be able to make it work. But, once I threw myself into it, that fear turned into something else. Now, I actually enjoy the unexpected. It became addictive. I have lived, worked and embraced the lifestyle of a few places across Australia. And, to be fair, some of the lifestyles weren't great for me - but I learnt a resounding amount. Why I Wanted to Travel in the First Place Port Douglas, Australia Pushing myself to embrace change As a kid, I was petrified of change. It took a lot for me to throw away any sort of toy or piece of clothing felt like the world was going to end (I'm sure my parents will have some good stories of this). That ended up translating into a fear of trying new things - a moment that I remember vividly was when I was around 10, trying out for a new football team where I didn't know anyone. Me and my mum, sat in the car, with 5 minutes to go until the first training session, and I couldn't go in. I sat and cried. My mum was trying to calm me down, but I convinced her to drive us home. No clue what changed, but I ended up going the next week. Played for that team for a full year. So, why does this matter? it was the first time I can remember where I faced a fear, backed out, then went back and did it anyway. It was probably my first lesson in anxiety and change that, in hindsight, shaped my ability to take on a new challenge. And how does this relate to travel? Let me tell you. That moment, small as it was, set a foundation. Even as a kid, I was learning that fear doesn't have to dictate what I do. It maybe subconsciously planted a seed? Showing the younger version of myself that - while it might be terrifying - stepping into the unknown is usually the start of something good. Fast forward to now: travel is all about embracing that unknown. New places, new people, new experiences - every day is pretty similar to that moment in the car. But instead of letting the fear and anxiety hold me back, I lean into it. Because if there's one thing I've figured out, it's that the best things usually sit on the other side of fear. So, maybe that early moment wasn't about joining a new football team - it was my first lesson in why stepping into the unknown is always worth it, even if it doesn't go the way I'd like it to. And maybe that's exactly what led me to pursue these years of travelling. Fear of Procrastinating my 20s A quote I heard a few years ago - probably while mindlessly scrolling through TikTok, the biggest cause of my procrastination: "The mass of men lead lives of quiet desperation." Henry David Thoreau. Absolute gut punch. Makes me question my life every time I hear it. I had this deep fear of getting older and still having the same dreams I did when I was younger. I couldn't be an old man, wishing he'd at least tried to do more. Scares the shit out of me. Throughout my final two years of uni, travelling was all I could think about. There were moments where I was so tempted to hold off - saving up, planning things properly, setting myself up for the 'right time'. But, then I thought... why? I could always do that later. Why wait? The temptation to get a 9-5 was definitely there. It still is. And honestly I don't think I would hate it. Routine, stability, financial structure - all those things appeal to me. I can 100% see myself enjoying that lifestyle. But what scared me more than the uncertainty of travel was the idea of waking up one day and realising I'd spent years dreaming about it instead of actually doing it. There's never a 'perfect time' to go. There's always a reason to wait - money, career, comfort. But if I didn't do it now, when would I? So, despite the temptation of stability, I chose the unknown. I chose the risk. The uncertainty. The possibility of failure. For me, the real risk wasn’t in travelling . It was in never going at all. The Working Holiday Visa Opportunity Fraser Island, Australia The biggest hurdle before travelling - even just for a short trip - was always saving enough money. Cash flows like water when you're on holiday. Which is fair - you're in a new place, wanting to experience everything. That's what made Australia's Working Holiday Visa a game-changer. It let me earn money while experiencing a new culture, environment and people. And, I'll tell you, the wages in Australia, in comparison to the UK? Crazy: United Kingdom (as of April 2024): Average Salary:  £37,430 (AUD $74,068.94) Australia (as of May 2024): Average Salary:  AUD $100,016.80 (£50,542.49). Despite being able to earn money while on the go, the visa allowed me to travel at my own pace. Before starting my Working Holiday Visa, the idea of immersing myself in a new way of life was so exciting to me. Having the freedom to choose when and where I wanted to settle and try find work was such a freeing feeling. The ability to pack everything up and move to somewhere new was so easy to do in Australia - if I didn't like somewhere, then move. Australia's East Coast is designed for backpackers, and, while being extremely overpriced at parts, it's made for travelling with ease. Before the visa, I wasn’t sure if long-term travel was realistic. But this Working Holiday Visa gave me time to figure things out. It gave me the chance to live in a new country, and lifestyle, without constantly worrying about running out of money. It would have been stupid not to try. Why I want to Travel Now The Freedom is Addictive When I first left home to travel, I didn't fully grasp what I was getting myself into. I remember thinking how weird it must feel to have the freedom to move wherever and whenever you wanted - like, how do people just decide to pack everything up and go? But once I actually had that kind of free will and started using it? It was game over. There is something about knowing you're not tied to a place that changes the way you see the world. If I wake up tomorrow and don't like where I am, I can leave. If I want to settle somewhere for a while, I can. If I want to live by the beach, I can. That constant ability to choose? That's what gets me. I get that this lifestyle isn't for everyone. There are things you give up. Like, stability? Don't have it. Long-term career progression? Haven't thought about it. A proper five-year plan? It changes every week. But swapping this for lifestyle for a predictable routine? Nah, you're alright. And it's not just about avoiding the 9-5 grind - it's the realisation that day-to-day life can be lived so differently if you want it to. My evenings would be spent driving home in the cold, miserable Scottish rain. Now? Me and the Mrs take our dinner down to the beach and watch the volleyball matches in front of the sunset. It's the little things. Right now, this kind of freedom is what keeps me moving, and I don't see myself giving it up anytime soon. The Challenge of it All I've realised that some of the more challenging experiences I have while travelling, have come to be the best stories. One of those stories were on a 24-hour bus journey from Laos to Hanoi, Vietnam. I decided to take the sleeper bus for this journey over flying. Because why not? Got on the bus in the evening, expecting to arrive the next day. After waking up at around 6am, the bus was at a stop. Thinking nothing of it, I fell back asleep. A few hours later, we were in the same spot. Tried speaking to other passengers. All Laotian. No one spoke English. Went to investigate. A huge lorry had tipped over. Class. When I say it was blocking the road, i mean about half. But not enough for the bus to get through. And, because we were in the middle of rural Laos, this road was on the side of a mountain. One side had a small ditch. The other? It was a steep cliff face. The bus couldn’t get through, so the locals came up with a plan. Reverse the bus, fill it with rocks from the roadside, and use them to patch up the ditch. Madness. If it went wrong, we’d be completely stuck or tip over. I didn’t want to just stand around, so I joined in. Carried big rocks from the bus to the ditch. The Laotian men pointed where to throw them. I launched a boulder exactly where they told me to. Mud went everywhere. Covered me. Nothing more humbling than a group of people laughing at you when you don’t even speak the same language. All you can do is laugh with them. Ended up finishing our makeshift road. Bus somehow made it through. The journey took around 35-hours in the end. I spent an entire day on that bus. Slept twice. Moments like that are so memorable to me. Things I'll never forget. I arrived at the hostel in Hanoi completely exhausted, looking ridiculous covered in dry mud - but I wouldn't change a thing. Looking back, it's those memories and experiences that remind me what I'm doing. That unpredictability allowed me to connect with locals in ways that I couldn't have imagined. It was a testing experience. I could've allowed myself to be miserable the entire journey but I didn't see a point. I couldn't control any part of that scenario so why let myself get down about it. It's moments like this that make we want more. Turning Travel into a Lifestyle After heading home after my first year in Australia, I realised I hadn't actually documented much of the year I spent there. I made a promise to myself that I'd at least try to document things a lot more. It started with getting into photography. It changed the way I travelled for sure. In Asia, the camera came everywhere with me. You start looking into the smaller details. I always kind of wanted to make money for myself, rather than working for someone else. And if I could do that while travelling, that's a huge win. I've seen people build a life around writing, video creation, and remote work. It made me think, I could do it. But the difference between the ones who do well, and the ones who don’t is down to consistency. If I want this to be real, I have to treat it like something real. That’s why I’m committing to posting often. Not just for fun, but because I need to document this part of my life. If I don’t, it’s like these experiences never happened in the same way. Writing, photography, and sharing my travels are things I enjoy and want to improve on. So I will. I want to look back and know I did everything I could to make this lifestyle work. No half-arsed attempts. And that's what I'm going to do.

India really got my heart racing from the moment I stepped out of the airport. It's chaotic, overwhelming, and a massive culture shock from day one. Yet, somehow, I got through three weeks without any real problems. From starting in Mumbai, weaving through Rajasthan, into Delhi – as well as dipping into Himachal Pradesh – it was undoubtedly the most intense and perspective-changing experience I've ever had. Of course, it wouldn't have been a complete experience without encountering some classic travel scams. Before arriving, I did some basic research. I knew that as a clueless and naive tourist, I'd be a walking target. If I had gone in blind, I probably would've ended up buying a "VIP fast-track Taj Mahal tour" from a guy named Raj outside of a chai stall. The reality is, poverty is a huge problem in India, and for some, scamming tourists is a way to make a living. It doesn’t make it any less frustrating when it happens, but it helps to understand why it does. If you keep your wits about you, you’ll be able to shrug off the random guy explaining that your train has "set on fire." So what scams did I encounter? Some were funny, some were creepy, and some were completely sickening. Let me break them down. The "Train is Cancelled" Scam Classic. I first encountered this at Mumbai Central station during peak hours. My first big mistake. Thousands of people pacing to their platforms. Sweat pouring down my face. Ready to give up trying to navigate the station. As I climbed the stairs, a man locked eyes with me. I had a feeling he was going to approach me – and he did. He speed-walked alongside me, tapping my shoulder. "Sir... please sir, you must stop." I ignored him and kept walking. He started pulling on my bag slightly. That’s when I told him to stop. This happened a few times at that station. I even asked one of them where my platform was, and he actually gave me directions. Think he saw how desperate I was to find my train. If I had stopped and listened, they would have tried to convince me my train wasn’t running and offered me an alternative ride – probably a 17-hour drive at an extortionate price. Danger: 3/5 Frustration: 4/5 Creativity: 3/5 This was after the chaos of Mumbai Central Station How to avoid it:  Luckily, I expected this scam. The real mistake was booking a midday train. After that, I switched all my train tickets to early morning when stations were quieter. So go as early as possible, ignore anyone telling you to stop, and don’t be naive. "We Don’t Have Uber Here" Scam Uber in India is wild. Some tuk-tuk drivers use it, but many don’t. I always stuck with Uber - more reliable and somehow they accept cash payments? When I landed in Jaipur, I pulled up the app outside the station. Instantly, a group of tuk-tuk drivers clocked me, and one swooped in. “No Uber in Jaipur” he claimed, ready to be my taxi driver. I knew that some smaller cities and towns wouldn’t have it, so it threw me off. This driver was persistent and waited with me for around ten minutes. When I finally had a confirmed Uber, he wasn’t pleased. He even followed me to the car and shouted in Hindi at the driver, like he’d broken some kind of code. Danger: 1/5 Frustration: 3/5 Creativity: 2/5 How to avoid it:  I always stuck with Uber. Safe, reliable, and a good price. Never trust someone who approaches you first. Palace Guards Scam In Jaipur, I visited the City Palace. A massive place, built in the 1700s, now a huge museum. When I went, it was a ghost town. The only thing giving it any life? The palace guards. Dressed in all white, a distinct red turban, and the most impressive moustaches I’ve ever seen. Super friendly guys, always offering to take photos with visitors. But see, that’s how they get you! They approach you in pairs, get you to take a picture with one of them, then bang – they ask for money. Honestly, fair play. They were polite, didn’t ask for much, and honestly, that moustache deserves a tip. The next hustle? Even better. In one of the palace rooms, guards were checking tickets for some reason. Looking back, I have no idea why. Once they checked mine, a guard pulled out a book full of money. Not dodgy, just a collection of different currencies people had given him. After chatting, he asked if I had any UK currency. I didn’t. It didn’t even cross my mind that this might’ve been a scam. It didn’t feel like one – more impressive than anything. Danger: 1/5 Frustration: 2/5 Creativity: 4/5 How to avoid it:  If you don’t want to pay for a picture, just… don’t take one. But, 50p for a decent photo isn’t the worst deal. The currency scam? Should’ve seen it coming. Lesson learned. Uber Driver Parking Scam This one felt a little more off than the others. After arriving in Delhi, I did what I always do - book an Uber to my hostel. The driver picked me up and started rambling about how he had to pay for parking while waiting for me. Right away, I knew where this was going. Apparently, the parking fee was the same as the entire Uber ride. Nice try, mate. He kept bringing it up, and I just told him I’d pay him at the end. I had no intention of doing that - I was just planning to get out and walk off. Then it got weirder. He started asking if I had friends at the hostel. If I knew people waiting for me. Why would that matter? Alarm bells started ringing. I just said yes, even though I knew no one. When we finally got there, I just grabbed my bag and left. I could hear him calling after me, insisting I owed him. Ignored it. Just a strange interaction all around. Danger: 3/5   Frustration: 4/5   Creativity: 2/5 How to avoid it: This one was tricky. When you're in a moving car, you're not exactly in control of the situation. The easiest way to avoid it? Just pay the guy and leave. But if you’re feeling stubborn, just act like you don’t understand and walk away when you arrive. Shit on the Shoe Trick Now for the worst one. Thankfully, this didn’t happen to me, but to another backpacker I met in Delhi. The way he described it was insane. A man approached him, knelt down, and told him he had ‘dog shit’ on his shoe. Then, conveniently, offered to clean it for a price. Something was off. The mess wasn’t in a normal stepped-in way. It was like someone had deliberately smeared it on. With their hand. He accepted the overpriced shoe cleaning. The worst part? The more he thought about it, the less convinced he was that it came from a dog. Danger: 4/5 Frustration: 5/5 Creativity: 5/5 How to avoid it:  If someone randomly points out a suspiciously placed mess on your shoe and offers to clean it for a fee, just walk away. And maybe don’t let strangers near your shoes in the first place. Final Thoughts If there’s one thing I learned from India, it’s that I would never really be prepared for the chaos - instead having to learn to navigate through it. Some of these scams were frustrating, some were impressive, and some were just strange. But they’re part of the experience. It’s the exchange for travelling somewhere as wild, unpredictable, and unforgettable as India. Would I do anything differently? Maybe. But even the scams were lessons. And if nothing else, at least I left with my wallet intact and some decent stories. Would I go back? Absolutely. But next time, I'll be avoiding Delhi's shoe cleaners.

In the next few days, South-East Queensland is about to be hit by a Category-2 Cyclone. One thing I always heard before actually going to Australia was, you have to be aware of the weather in different times of the year. I didn’t actually realise how much it could affect your travel plans. I think that, because in the UK and Europe, we aren’t really affected too badly by weather, you just assume weather won't really be an issue. We have seasons that affect work opportunities, prices, and events, yeah, but the worst we get - especially in Scotland - is snow days, where you can’t drive your car because it’s too snowy. But that’s kind of it. Whereas in Australia, you get so many more. You get cyclones, floods, bushfires - dangerous things. Things that can actually be a threat to people. And because of the weather, especially in the last few months - peak summer in the Sunshine Coast - you hear a lot about travel plans getting cancelled. Festivals, activities, tours, just gone, because of the weather. The majority of things in Australia are outdoors or in nature, and they are weather-dependent. When me and my girlfriend came down the East Coast, we did it in October, which is one of the perfect times. So, yeah, I think timing your trip to Australia actually makes a massive difference. It can end in disappointment if you don’t time it right. As of right now, the reason I - let’s say - was inspired to write this, is because we’ve got a cyclone coming towards the Sunshine Coast. People are panicking, restaurants and cafes are closing, things like that. It’s very strange, but I’m kind of looking forward to it in a way. I’ve never really been exposed to, you know, drastic weather, dangerous weather. We’re prepared, but I don’t think we’ll need to be overly prepared. We’ll see. Here is some information that might be useful for knowing the best time to visit Australia, but only for the states of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, and Western Australia. QUEENSLAND (QLD) Weather Queensland is more tropical, subtropical. The best time to visit is the dry season - May to October . The wet season is November to April . That’s what we’re in now. Heavy rains, unbearable humidity - especially a couple of months ago - and cyclones. The cyclones usually happen more up north, closer to Cairns or Townsville. We were told it’s a rare thing to happen here, but it’s not unprecedented. The weather also makes a difference for things like going in the ocean - Box jellyfish or the Irukandji can be deadly. Work Opportunities Peak hiring season in hostels, bars, and restaurants is during the dry season ( May-October ) in areas like Cairns, the Whitsundays, and the Gold Coast. Great Barrier Reef tours, diving instructors, skydiving companies, and rainforest tours are busiest in the dry season. Then there’s farm work - banana farms, mango farms - which can be year-round. Prices Peak prices are actually in winter as people from New South Wales and Victoria come up to escape the cold. So, prices go up. But in the wet season, hostels are cheaper. I found that the Christmas period on the Sunshine Coast was extremely busy with Australian tourists. Let's just say that the Christmas period in most places have soaring prices. Events and festivals The Cairns Festival - a celebration of art, culture and the lifestyle of tropical North Queensland. Sporting events run throughout the year: triathlons, marathons, Hyrox events - that sort of thing. VICTORIA (VIC) Best to visit Australiatime Weather Melbourne’s weather is all over the place. Four seasons in one day is a thing. The best times to visit are autumn ( March-May ) and spring ( September-November ). Summer is good too - hot, but not humid. Perfect weather. The Great Ocean Road is iconic, but you don’t want terrible weather for it. Work Opportunities Melbourne is massive on hospitality. Bars, restaurants, cafes - they’re huge on coffee. Hospitality peaks in summer but is busy year-round. There’s also vineyard work and ski jobs in the Victorian Alps from June to August . Prices Melbourne is slightly more affordable than Sydney. It’s cheaper in winter when it’s gloomy, but summer prices go up because of all the festivals. Food and drink in Melbourne can be pricey compared to other cities, especially in popular areas like Fitzroy or Southbank. Events and festivals Probably the biggest sporting event in Australia - the Australian Open. The Melbourne Cup - Horse racing - in November. Music festivals vary from October to April . NEW SOUTH WALES (NSW) Weather While Sydney is in a warm temperate climate, you can find a range of climates throughout NSW - from hot dry Summers, to Alpine winters in the Snowy Mountains. Weather-wise, Sydney is best in spring ( September-November ) and autumn ( March-May ). Summer is great too - hot, but crowded. NSW can go through intense thunderstorms and even flooding in parts. Work Opportunities Hospitality in Sydney peaks in the summer. Sydney is the place to be for Christmas and New Year’s. There’s also work in the Blue Mountains in autumn and spring. And, of course, farm work - grape farms, cherry farms. Prices For prices, Sydney is extremely overpriced. If you think London is bad, Sydney will match it - if not top it. More regional areas like the Blue Mountains and Byron Bay can be cheaper in winter but still see steady prices due to year-round tourism. Events and festivals New Year’s Eve in Sydney. Iconic. Vivid Sydney - a festival of light, where immersive light installations and projections are showcased. WESTERN AUSTRALIA (WA) Weather Perth is best in spring ( September-November ) and autumn ( March-May ). Up north, the dry season is May to October . Summer ( December-February ) is brutal - apparently not ideal for travel. Work Opportunities Perth has consistent hospitality jobs. The one thing I know Perth for is FIFO jobs - mining work. They’re competitive, and the best way to get in is to know someone in FIFO. Like Fight Club or something. There’s also farm work - grapes and citrus farms. Prices The north of WA is expensive year-round. Maybe because of limited accommodation Perth is relatively affordable compared to Sydney and Melbourne, but flights from the East Coast can be expensive. Car hire and fuel can be significantly more expensive in remote areas due to fewer suppliers. Events and festivals Perth Festival ( Feb-March ) - arts and culture. Whale shark season ( March-July ). Perth Fringe Festival ( Jan-Feb ) - similar to the Edinburgh Fringe, a huge arts and comedy festival with street performers and live shows. Final Thoughts It doesn't really matter what time of year you go to Australia, but knowing what to expect helps. Like, if you travelled the East Coast from January to March and didn’t realise it was wet season, you’d be in for a surprise. I’ve seen videos of people stuck on Fraser Island (K’gari) because of cancellations. A lot of travellers do the East Coast on a tight schedule, so cancellations would be frustrating. The Whitsundays, too - so easy for trips to be cancelled. Even if they’re not, bad weather would change the experience massively. I’m not saying don’t go at certain times, just - be aware. If it were me, and I had three weeks to do the East Coast, and a cyclone hit, cancelling all my plans? It would be so frustrating. Plan around the weather. Figure out where you want to go, and when. Obviously, peak seasons mean higher prices, but there are perfect little sweet spots. If I had to pick one month to visit Australia, I’d say September . It’s spring, things are picking up, more tourists but not too many, no wet season. Good balance. That’s just my take.

Decided to stray away from attempting to write about all of the places I've visited in the order I did them. Think it slows me down a little but i'm going to catch up with everywhere. Nong Khiaw is the fourth destination I have descended on in Laos . It is a small village in the north of Laos and honestly the bus journey was the most nauseating thing I have ever experienced . A group of nine people; myself, my old workmate Rowan, and seven others who I had met on the slow boat heading into Laos. The usual route to Nong Khiaw from Vang Vieng (a town just North of the capital Vientiane), would be getting the bullet train, built by the chinese government, and a 4 hour bus. Instead we decided to all chip in for a bus through the mountains straight to the mountainous village. It wasn't the nine hour journey that was the issue, it was the roads themselves that were the problem. If you think pot-holes in the UK are bad, then you'll start to appreciate them after experiencing the extreme motion sickness of this consistent rollercoaster-like drive. I'd rather the worst plane turbulence than have to experience that journey again. Soon after arriving in Nong Khiaw, a few of us stayed in the only hostel in the village - eco farmstay and hostel . I was a bit skeptical of this place when I could only find one hostel, but honestly it's a very well maintained place, apart from the potential animal shit that I found on my pillow, and the animal noises coming from the walls of the room (we thought it might've been a bat). As soon as we arrived, we were greeted by Sammie, a very eccentric Laotian man who spoke very good english. He offered us different guided treks that tourists usually do, and, in our exhausted state, we agreed to do two of them within 3 days. I could've done with a days rest but I knew the others I was travelling with were on a tight schedule, so we agreed to start at 1:30pm the next day. Day one of the mountainous trek consisted of a three-hour straight incline hike to Phar Khew Lom 360 viewpoint . The rain from the night before made the path extremely slippery, and combining this with the extreme heat and humidity, it became a sweat-fest. Don't think I've ever experienced sweating that extreme before. When we would rest, constant droplets would leak from my face and hands. My hands started wrinkling and pruning, it wasn't a pretty sight. The mountain had an elevation of 3730 feet, which would be considered a Munro back in Scotland (needs to be at least 3000 feet). It reminded me of Ben Vorlich - with a constant incline, as if you are on a stair master the entire hike. After reaching the summit, legs shaking and body drenched, I was so happy it was over. Although after witnessing the view, all of the nightmarish memories disappeared as I was so taken aback. I never actually knew how incredible the landscape of Laos was before coming here. I keep saying how similar it is to Pandora in Avatar; the tall steep terrain like mountains, covered in green, but enough underneath that displays the vertical cliff-face. I remember learning about V-shaped valleys in school, but these are much more similar to a U-shape. Upon not having any expectations, my mind was blown. Once we took in the views, and caught our breath, we were given a box of egg fried rice which was extremely compacted into a takeaway box. It was a basic meal but we all needed some sort of food to fill our stomach, and I'm still grateful for the guide that carried all of the food. The other guide set up the tents for us, but I wanted to sleep outside of them, it's not everyday you get to sleep on top of a mountain in Laos. I kind of regretted it the next morning because of the wind and lightning, but its a story at least. The entire reason we camped at the top was to wake up, watch the sunrise and walk back down. These things usually never go according to plan, as we woke up and the sunrise was pretty shit, with the sky being cloudy and hardly able to see the actual sunrise. I knew what I was getting into and relying on an incredibly picturesque sunrise was something I avoided thinking about, it just would've been a bonus. After a couple of spicy pot noodles, we began our descent from the mountain, with an aim of reaching the bottom in one hour and 20 minutes (which we smashed). Stinking of sweat, covered in mud, and a real desire to collapse in bed for a couple days, we made our way back to the hostel to get ready for our next trek. I knew the second day would be the most mentally exhausting, especially because it was around seven hours of trekking up hills and through the Laos jungle . I never actually knew the difference between a forest and a jungle, but it turns out just under half of Laos is jungle terrain, and in this area it's extremely dense in it. We began another intimidating incline walk, but this time with a beaten path and having to manoeuvre around huge trees, giant vines that often were spiralled, and avoiding any of the insects that were scattered every meter. Using our bamboo sticks that the guide found for us, we somehow made it to the top, meaning that there would be no more upwards scrambling. Even after knowing this, we still couldn't relax. There was no cold breeze to cool us down and the mosquitoes were attacking us at every second (also knowing that Laos is renowned for malaria and dengue fever doesn't exactly calm the heart rate). Back down through the same terrain, after slipping a good amount, we made it out onto a clear field. At first I thought it was a farm, but soon realised we were among where the water buffalo lived. These giant cow-like animals with horns almost seemed scared of us. They wore giant bells around their neck, so you would know if any were nearby, but it didn't exactly put my mind at ease when they would sprint and stare at you. After climbing a good amount of fences, we finally got to march around the famous rice fields of Laos. Being extremely careful not to destroy the walls dividing the fields, we got to watch the farmers as they softened the ground with their combine harvesters. We greeted everyone we walked by with "sabaidee" which is one of three sayings that I learnt (translates to "good day" ). It was really fascinating watching the farmers (the majority wearing fake football shirts) and their young children plowing the fields with machinery that looked extremely outdated. Seeing the bamboo built huts, and feeling like the hobbits marching to Mordor, we were welcomed by the farm residents, who were celebrating something, offering us "lao-Lao" (otherwise known as "happy water" ) before we continued our walk. We were handed the clear alcohol, unsure of whether the farmers had created this, and took a swig of it. It is hard to explain the taste, but the burn I felt in my chest is like nothing I have experienced before. Our guide told us the strength of the whiskey/wine (honestly unsure) is between 50%-60%, and it was incredibly easy to keep drinking once you get past the heart burn; not quite as bad as Wray&Nephew. Finally arriving at our Homestay ( Thong Homestay ) in Huayhoi Village , I realised it was the most remote place I have ever been to in my life. Next to the Nam Ou river stood around 30 buildings, the majority built using bamboo, but others with stone and some skilled architecture considering where we were. The owner of our homestay explained that it took him three years to build, and I wasn't surprised as the bamboo walls were created with a detailed weaving pattern. Later in the evening, the homestay owner and his family called on us to help prepare our meal for the night: we had to shred bamboo, cut some eggplant, and precisely pick the water spinach (a cabbage like vegetable, which the locals call "morning glory" and I'm still unsure why). Cooked over a fire-pit, we each took turns cooking the ingredients, while being handed more happy water. Served with rice and MSG, the food was amazing. Knowing we were beginning the next day of trekking pretty early, we headed to bed. I was extremely curious about how small villages, like Huayhoi, established themselves and how they managed as a community, so here are some distinct characteristics that I learnt: On days where the residents would celebrate (for example, the farming season ending) they would choose one of the animals that roam around the village to cook and eat together - choosing from the chickens, cats or dogs. Asking our tour guide if there was a mayor of some sorts that control the village, he explained that each settlement has a "Master" that takes charge of maintaining structures, roadways and food distribution. Bigger villages will have multiple masters who make these decisions together. We were told that a five year-old could not drink the happy water, but it was acceptable for a 10 year-old to drink the strong alcohol. There was a small area where you could receive phone service, with markings on the bench where - if you placed your phone between - you would receive the best service. We couldn't figure out if the locals actually approved of us being in the village. Our guide explained that the children love interacting with visitors, and the adults were were content with us as we brought in money that is shared between everybody. Waking up at around 8am, we ate rice and eggs, and headed off on our final day of walking. It was a much more relaxed day as we spent the majority of it on a long boat that took us down stream, back towards Nong Khiaw. We stopped off at some caves, where I learnt that the Lao people resided during the Vietnam war. We were told that people lived there for around 20 years, and we even witnessed human bones laying around. We made our way to the top of a viewpoint, which overlooked another larger village, while being swarmed by bright orange butterflies. After having a pretty full-on three days, everybody was pretty exhausted at this point, but we still had an organic farm to visit for lunch, waterfalls further along the trail, and to kayak down the river back to the hostel. We arrived at the farm, decided not to go to the waterfalls, and myself and Rowan sluggishly paddled back to Nong Khiaw. I was properly defeated by the end of it. My feet were destroyed and my clothes were drenched in sweat again. I had no expectations for Nong Khiaw, but the trekking has definitely been a highlight of my travels so far. Although it was mentally draining, looking back I managed to experience such surreal moments that I'll never forget, cringe to say but its true. If you are in Laos, make sure to visit Nong Khiaw and do as many of the treks as you can, can't recommend it enough. Cheers to the guys I trekked with as well, was a good laugh (Rowan, Sam, Jojo, Abbie and Lilah). From: 8th July 2024 Until: 13th July 2024

Mumbai is a very densely populated city, with 73,000 residents per square mile. If you have never experienced being thrown into the centre of such a crowded city, which I had not, you'll quickly come to realise that the fast-pace chaotic streets all surprisingly work in unison. From my experience, arriving in India through Mumbai is definitely throwing yourself in at the deep end. From the moment you step out of the airport, you feel the blistering heat and humidity (around 40 degrees) even in the night time. My flight arrived at around 3:00am on the 21st May, and I knew that finding an Indian sim card was the first thing on my agenda. Luckily, there was one telecom provider just before the exit of the airport - Airtel. I was expecting to have to pay a stupid amount for the sim but I was surprised that it only cost ₹600 (roughly £6) for 30 days of around 1GB a day. It took a few hours to actually begin working so I couldn't order an Uber, which I heard was widely used in India, so I began asking around for the taxi rank. Luckily, a nice gentleman offered to share his hotspot so I could order an Uber straight to the hostel I was staying in. I'm still grateful for how generous he was, and that was only the beginning of how kind and helpful the locals have been towards me. Once finding the Uber pick-up spot, the blaring sound of car horns was almost deafening, but I managed to find my driver. A small squared car (usually a Suzuki Wagon R) rolled up and I jumped in. As we were speeding out of the airport, I quickly realised that the beeping of the horns wasn't going to stop any time soon, even when driving throughout the night. No seatbelt, no 4G and no clue if the driver was taking me the right way, I felt like a helpless tourist. Arriving and stopping down a dark alleyway, I asked the driver if we had arrived, but he didn't speak a word of English. I jumped out, walked around in a circle in the pitch black, and luckily found an older guy cooking through an open doorway. He pointed me towards the hostel, thankfully. Namastey backpackers hostel (a play on the the respectful Hindu greeting " Namaste ") is a renovated two-story house with a fenced off social area outside, which is where I first stepped into. After the adrenaline calmed down, I realised quickly that I was drenched in sweat; not sure if it was the humidity or the sheer panic of thinking I was getting mugged. Either way, I was just happy I got checked in and had a bed for the night. I woke up and the aircon had been turned off, I could've went insane. Spoke to a couple of English guys who told me the aircon gets turned off during the day, so it forces people to get up and out. I still don't really understand that logic. After asking the best place to get water, they laughed, and told me I'll find it everywhere and to never pay more than 20 rupees (£0.20). So I got ready, got some water, and headed out for a nice stroll around the city, which was my first experience of culture shock. Maybe I was naive to what I would experience when solo travelling India, but, the first day, I really felt as if I had a big target on my back. Mumbai firstly doesn't have any pavements, so you are walking on the road beside the masses of cars, tuktuks and scooters, praying you won't get your foot caught under a tyre. Secondly, as a white man (*New Girl reference) visiting India during the off-peak tourist season, you do feel a lot of eyes burning into the back of your head. As well as the stares, I was approached every 10-20 seconds by either tuktuk drivers, shopkeepers, beggars asking for food, and even very young children chasing after me and grabbing onto my leg, hoping I'll give them money. I knew that India has an ongoing problem with poverty (10% of residents were considered poor in 2019, meaning they were making less than $2.15 USD or £1.68 per day) so I was prepared to interact with many struggling people on the streets. But there is something so jaw-dropping about watching two young children (maybe 3-4 years old) sprinting across an incredibly busy road to interact with you. It's disheartening to see poverty in such a way. I won't lie, I found the first day quite difficult to buy food. I honestly didn't know where to go or what to ask for. It's definitely something I would advise researching before arriving. You hear stories of Delhi belly which in my case made me worry about all of the street stalls. Over time, that anxiety disappears and you start to realise that it's out of your control whether it happens. Basically what I am saying is eat everything and anything you can, but be wary for certain less busy food stalls. What I learnt was that the busier food stalls will have a constant turn-over of food, meaning it's not sitting and building up bacteria. Also, any drink that is boiled is safe to consume, even if the pot looks horrid ( masala chai looks disgusting but it's one of the nicest drinks I've had out here). After 3 days in Mumbai, I did the majority of the " top sights " but being completely honest, there aren't many. Not that it's a bad thing, but I quickly learned that being amidst the chaos and the culture itself is enough of an experience. Seeing the Gateway of India is pretty interesting (it was built to celebrate the arrival of King George V when he was named Emperor of India in 1911, Emperor is such a funny term to me). This is where I had my first experience of groups of people asking for photographs with me. The mother of a large family, a small woman wearing a traditional green dress, approached me and politely asked if they could get a picture. Of course I said yes, but I didn't realise she meant a picture with each individual child. I didn't mind because they were all so polite. She shook my hand after, and all of the kids stood with their arm out copying their mum. Maybe I'm wrong but it was as if they had never shook hands before, which would make sense because the most common way to greet people in India is to bow and say "namaste". I thought it was a really sweet gesture from the family. The photographs didn't stop there! A young couple approached and asked, and how could I say no! Once people saw that I was happy to take a picture, they knew it was a good opportunity to try their luck. Throughout the day I took a couple more pictures and met some really kind people. The security guards at the Elephanta caves offered to walk around with me and take pictures, but I wasn't sure if they were hoping for a quick tip afterwards. The one hour ferry to the caves was actually a breeze but having to walk up the steps for 40 minutes in the blistering 50 degree heat almost took me out. The carvings on the island are possibly from the 2nd century BC by Hinayana buddhists, but is now devoted to both Hinduism as well as buddhism. After declining a very persistent tour guide, I had my first attempt at haggling . Now this is where I found myself to be most naive. What I have been told about haggling is you have to start extremely low compared to the initial offer, well-over half of the amount, even a third, of what they offer. It may seem disrespectful, but at the end of the day you are trying to get the best value for money and they know how to play the game. Don't budge with your price until they offer something significantly less - they respect the hustle if you know what you are doing. Even make an attempt at walking away if you have to. One backpacker that I met told me that you should always tell the market seller that you are "only looking". They will most likely continue offering a lower price as an initial offer, from which you begin the haggle. Only ever do this when there is not a set price on an item, for example, do not do this in restaurants, cafes - I avoided doing it with any food or drink. Mumbai sunsets are some of the most amazing I have ever witnessed. Either from Juhu beach or Marine Drive ; it's honestly like nothing you've ever seen before. I got an Uber to drive along the Marine Drive in the evening, and it was the best way to experience this in my opinion. Seeing the the Mumbai skyline shadowed by the orange sky is incredible. Juhu beach is an experience itself, with thousands of locals gathering there each day. I got talking about why it was so busy with some locals, and they explained that Mumbai doesn't have many things to do for locals to relax and have some down-time, but I was amazed to see the huge crowd that covered the beach on a random Tuesday. Seeing games of cricket being played on the sand, with the sun setting in the background, is exactly how I imagined evenings in India to play out. Unintentionally, each of my three days in Mumbai were completely different experiences; the first, seeing the chaos in every aspect and dealing with the culture shock; the second, seeing the history, the attractions, and trying to understand how the city functions; and lastly, discovering that there are venues (cafes, restaurants etc) that completely contradict the hectic atmosphere found on every street of Mumbai. Subko cafe in Bandra was like a safe-haven to me. The calm ambience gave me time to relax and collect my thoughts, eat good food, and honestly changed my perspective on the city itself. It was very much a student cafe, with everybody working on laptops, writing in notebooks, or catching up with friends. It made me realise that the entirety of Mumbai, and even India, isn't all mayhem and madness, and that Indian people too need to get out of the constant rush of the city. One of my final meals in Mumbai was at a place called Jimi's Burger restaurant , which one of my roommates talked highly of. It was opposite the hostel, the entrance was a sketchy elevator opening onto the street, and guarded by security. All for a burger place? When the elevator doors opened on the first floor, the empty restaurant workers all turned to face my way, smiled generously, and a couple of them began walking towards me. I was seated, my bottled water opened and poured for me, which was a little over the top, but I could tell that they were really trying to make the service as proper as possible. Throughout my meal, the staff were wandering around the empty restaurant, hands behind their back, displaying a different kind of mannerisms to the rest of the cities residents. Although different, I really liked and respected it. The chicken burger was served disassembled, filled with incredible sauces and spices, and took me by surprise, not like anything you would be served in Scotland. Of course it doesn't compare to the curry and roti combination but I thought it was really interesting to try the Indian take on a "western" dish. To start my trip in Mumbai was extremely overwhelming to begin with. I had moments of feeling like a brainless and ignorant tourist, but i learned that it was normal to feel like you didn't belong there. It was only because of the sympathetic and helpful people I interacted with, that I realised the feeling of sticking out was purely down to curiosity. Yes, many people view you as a way to make some good money, but when you look at the bigger picture you have to respect the hustle. The outlook on making money in India is wildly different to the majority of the Western world. To make money is to survive and put food on the table for a large portion of the population, even giving up a roof over their heads to achieve this. Even after three days I felt as if I had learned so much, but when it came to attempting to navigate the train system, that was an entirely different experience. One in which I couldn't have prepared for. Mumbai's Marine Drive From: 21st May 2024 Until: 24th May 2024

When planning and drafting up an India itinerary, I was heavily swaying towards flying to the majority of places I wanted to visit. If I'm being honest the idea of boarding the trains in India terrified me. You've seen the pictures: hundreds of people hanging off the train, sitting on the roof, crammed into a disgusting carriage with no AC. As well as this, over 100,000 railway deaths in India occurred from 2017-2021 (over 70% of these are from either falling off the trains or being run over). That's a horrifying number. Although I wasn't keen on using the railway system, I knew that it was all part of the experience. Finding my train from Mumbai central station , at the peak afternoon time, was a completely otherworldly experience. From getting out of the Uber and walking into the station, I found crowds of people queuing for a ticket. When I say they were queuing, I mean they were charging at the ticket desk waving cash. I noticed this seemed to be the tactic all over India. Even at the airport when I was checking in my luggage, a small Indian man stood beside me and began talking over the airline worker who was weighing my bag. He ended up getting told to step back but I don't actually know if he understood why. It's as if personal space and patience are not part of their everyday life. Not that it's a bad thing, but it is another minor difference in culture you become accustomed to. Luckily, I had booked my train online (through an app called 12Go ) which removed the stress of having to weave my way through the masses of people. I ended up not having a clue on how to find my platform and I had to ask multiple workers and policemen on where to go, but it still took a good 45 minutes to do it. I only later found out that Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus is the third largest station in the whole of the country, and during peak hours it was near enough hell. It also turns out 3 million people per day pass through this station, which is now a World Heritage site, and it doesn't surprise me. When I was en route to the platform, drenched in sweat and stressed I might miss the train, a good 10 different locals approached me attempting to stop me and have a conversation. I knew that scammers were prominent in the railway stations and they made sure to make themselves known. The first scammer spotted me wandering around aimlessly which was my first mistake, acting confident about where I was going and ignoring any attempt from someone talking to me is key. I had people spotting me from across the walkway and making sure to walk in the same direction so I'd cross the same path as them. Another walked quickly beside me, started tugging on my clothes telling me I had to stop, but I knew instantly I would be swarmed by more. I had read a lot about train station scammers instructing you that your train has been cancelled and that they could drive you to your destination, which I think is hilarious considering I was travelling almost 1000km. After walking a kilometer to finally find my platform, I now had no idea which carriage my bed was in for the journey. I ended up walking the entire length of the platform to realise it was back at the beginning of the train. The train started moving, and I knew that I had to at least jump on and find it from there. Walking through the crowd of people in the lower classes, where there was no air conditioning and little seating, was a reminder of how the majority of Indians travel on a daily basis. I found my bed, got comfortable and attempted to relax for the next 16 hours of the journey. Jodhpur is renowned for its blue buildings (nicknamed the blue city ) and forts that overlook the city. I was told by multiple tuktuk drivers that Uber didn't work in this city, but when I showed them that my driver was on their way, they would look at me blankly in disbelief. I even had one taxi driver follow me and speak to my driver aggressively in Hindi. The hostel wasn't the best ( Zostel Clock tower ) with no real working aircon in the almost 50 degree heat. Next door was Sam's Art Cafe which is where I tried my first Lassi (a sweet yoghurt drink famous in the Punjabi region) which was a solid 10/10. The funny thing about this cafe was the one of the workers handed me his phone randomly with somebody wanting to speak to me on a call. He tried persuading me that he was the best taxi driver in Jodhpur and he would take me around all of the best sites in the city. It turned out he had taken a picture of me and sent it to this random driver which kind of spooked me, so I refused. Again, I knew it was only a difference in culture but the lack of respect became really frustrating. I spent two nights in Jodhpur which was enough time to see the everything I had planned. I was only there to walk through the Blue City and climb the Mehrangarh Fort , which both were amazing to witness. Climbing the fort was a mission itself while being blasted by the 47 degree heat. I must have went through about 3/4 litres of water in a few hours and sweating it all out. I was surprised to only see Indian tourists, and again not a westerner in site. There was a temple at the tip of the fort with steps leading to it, and, if you didn’t know, you have to enter temples barefoot. One of my most embarrassing moments was when I couldn't climb the steps because the soles of my feet were blistering from the heat of the ground. Imagine that however you want, but shit it was like walking on fire so I gave in. The view from the top was something medieval, but mostly blue because of the buildings. I couldn't find a set answer on why the majority of the city was blue, but what I found was it is due to attempting to repel termites; the buildings are covered with copper sulphate which turns blue in hot conditions? I also heard that the colour blue is meant to keep the inside of a house much cooler than any other colour? Couldn't tell you honestly. Walking through the streets and alleyways at night was something I didn't plan on doing, but in my attempt to find a restaurant (which didn't exist) I almost got attacked by a street dog. The street dogs differ each city I went to. In Jodhpur, I'm pretty sure its the Indian Pariah dog which roam the streets. I love dogs but these things fight among themselves and guard a lot of the alleyways, and it's these dogs which are known for giving people rabies, so fuck that. Overall, Jodhpur is a good place to stop off for a day or two if you are heading towards the golden triangle from the south. Other than the blue city and the fort, there is honestly not much else going on. It is more a city that allows you to experience how Rajasthani people live, but a couple of nights is enough. From: 25th May 2024 Until: 27th May 2024